Unlike most sports, success in big wave surfing isn’t measured in wins and losses, it’s measured by life and death.
One British surfer posted a video of his attempt at riding a giant 50-foot wave, and it didn’t go so well. He ended up getting wrecked and spit out the front, but miraculously survived.
In his Instagram post, he disclosed he did suffer a broken back, but it was better than the alternative. He also added that he can’t wait to get better do he can go find his next big wave. Dude…..
What can I say, I got a little excited this morning and ending up having possibly the worst wipeout impact wise of my life. Thank you to all the lifeguards and crew on the beach who helped stabilise me and do a great spinal recovery, I can’t name everyone but you all did your bit to get me safely to the hospital . Obviously huge shout out to the team: @mcnamara_s for the waves, @hugovau for rescue, company and laughs in the hospital and @polvo32 for the calls on the radio and friendship . I have broken my back but I’ve been really lucky, I’m already looking forward and focusing my energy to get fit and back out there on some more big rollers ! ????? • Footage comes from Wednesday while @go_dids was filming a documentary about @mcnamara_s’s return to big wave surfing, produced by @polikromia